Hi Guys

I'm hoping Adrian or one of the SA Surf Gurus can help me out with the following:

I have paddled a bit in the sea in a kayak (First a Riot Showbiz and then a Small Flirt) and have just go the sexiest damn thing ever ( A Fluid Element for the uninitiated).

1) Getting out through big foamies - head on, diagonally, sink the tail and try get the nose up? I'm trying all of these and getting worked - either backflips or front flips and losing lots of momentum.

2) Taking off - is it better to take off straight or diagonally. I am trying both and suppose it depends on wave size and strength etc?

3) Carving - because the edges are so pronounced and the bottom is so flat it's hard to push the rails into the wave face. Should I be leaning from the waist or keeping my body straight and forcing the hull to actively dig into the face?

4) Paddle - how hard to drag the paddle on the face as a pivot point? I haven't been on massive waves yet so it seems to be a balancing act between turning and losing too much momentum.

Any other advice will be good!

Andrew

It's really just about practice. I paddle in the surf a little, and if I haven't done it for a while I basically go back to square 1. I know what to do, but you lose form, especially when trying to get out over the big foamies.

1) I always edge a bit, put in sort of a boof stroke, and you have to aggressively throw your weight forward right as it hits you. This generally gets me up ontop of the foam pile. Yes, you will lose all of your momentum. If you don't edge you're pretty much guaranteed to do a backflip. If a wave is going to land on your head either paddle hard and try and punch through the face, or if all is lost, and IT is going to catch YOU no matter what, then I'll just catch it to avoid a massive beatdown.

2) Learning to actually catch the waves is harder than you'd think, and again needs practice. It's very easy to lean too far forward and have your nose perl a little, or slow you down just enough so you fall off the wave. Small leans forward and back from your HIPS (don't just hunch over/back) are best. I usually take off with a little angle. I try not to use much edge until as soon as I feel myself starting to slide down the wave, then as you drop down be on your edge quick. So long as you're catching waves and you're not perling it doesn't really matter.

3) Have not paddled the boat, but generally carving is not a matter of just leaning, it actually takes a little bit of work. I find you have to lean toward the face, and also really concentrate on pulling the opposite knee up hard and keeping it up so you continue to carve across.

4) Ideally you wouldn't need the paddle at all. If you can carve around and use good edge control without your paddle than this would be best. But of course this isn't realistic. So just use it as much as you feel necessary to help you turn or to balance as you carve...


And as for other advice? I'd say the ocean waves are good fun but they're a different beast. Takes a little time to get used to them. Also if you do go out in bigger surf, use an anti-implosion device like a happy thruster or something. If a big enough wave lands on your deck, there's a good chance it will implode (or just pull it down and fill your boat with water). The last thing you want is to be swimming in the break zone in big surf! Good luck trying to get your boat back into shore when it's full of water.

That and if you can find a nice point break where you can catch the waves, then paddle back around them as opposed to your normal beach break where you have to paddle through them, you'll take far less beatdowns in your kayak

Have read and will reply tmrw hopefully! Time to sleep, up ultra early tmrw

First off, well done on your purchase. No doubt you are mighty satisfied with your choice already

1.) As Allen said, it's about practice. Keep at it and soon you'll be able to go over massive foamies. Check out the 2 photos below on a smallish foamie.




Unfortunately the photographer did not take the first photo. In that one, I would have (in this case) taken a hard vertical stroke on the right hand side, edged my right edge down and leaned back only a little, getting my weight forward straight away. The Element has a sharp nose rocker which makes it very easy to get over big whitewater. In a boat like the Nemesis, you'd have to lean back a little more. But again, getting your body to a neutral or aggressive (leaning forward) position right after that stroke! Very important. In this first photo you'll see my wrist cocked in a funny position and what I'm doing there is clearing the right blade from the water to immediately get it back into the water and forward again. This is vital, as in all apects of paddling, especially rivers. If you have a blade in the water, you are in control. Never forget that!!!
In the second photo I've got that right blade in again. This will either be a sort of a right stroke again or a draw stroke which acts as a brace. The water is very aerated in that foam and sometimes the stern will sink a little and squirm around. The blade in the water acts as a balance point and also helps keep you going forward. This way I don't lose my forward speed and can get out fairly quickly... Also, paddle hard towards the approaching foam. Using this technique you can get over some pretty big stuff. I hope I've made it fairly clear. If you are in Cape Town, give me a shout. I'll gladly show you anything you want to know. Remember to check out my Essential Skills videos, they show stuff like draw strokes. Very important to have good technique. A good base knowledge will go a long way to improving your kayaking!




In the shot above I'm going over a larger foamie and this time my left blade is in the water (almost). Keep driving, and keep a blade in the water, preferably pulling slightly forward (although the water/energy of the wave) is going the opposite direction. Note my body position, I am still leaning FORWARD. You only lean backwards for a split second as the water hits your bow, then hard forward again.

2.) Take off either (depending), but usually (almost always) either left or right, depending on the wave. If the wave is very steep and hollow, you will fall out of the sky and catch your bow if you go straight... You will almost always take off going left or right. I often paddle towards a set wave (heading out) and turn either way as I read the wave and know which way it will break (this can take practise). I'll turn, using draw strokes and then change direction in, keep an eye on the wave and also other water users. Never drop in on somebody elses wave and know the right of way rules.

3.) How heavy are you? If you are quite light, raise the seat in your Element. This will give you more control over the edge of your boat. The edges are great and actually difficult to carve so hard as to get them to stall/break out. Essential Skills video volume I of mine shows edge control. Use your hips/knees and also your body. I have foam blocks under my knees so I can pull up on my knee and push down on the opposite, giving me fine edge control.



In the photo above, check out the body lean.




And again, not using the paddle as a brace, which I'll get into on your 4th question.

4.) Dragging your paddle in the water will SLOW YOU DOWN> this is bad. Use it only slightly, and check out the photos below. You must be able to carve without having your paddle in the water. One can use the trailing paddle blade to help stay on a steep wave as it acts like a rudder but don't use it as a brake, and definitely not as a brace, don't lean on it. If you're smart, you can use it almost like the fins on your kayak. Usually when dropping into a wave and holding a big bottom turn. Check it out below. Hope this all helps!




Spend a lot of time in the surf and paddle with other people who are better than you. See what they do. Watch the waves and learn from them. Watch for sets and learn to keep looking out for them. I often go into a brief bow stall to get a better view. This also gives you the edge over surfers as they are usually also around. Quietly paddle into position for a set. As you've probably noticed, sets are often quite different and take off points move around. Unless you're surfing a point break which you're probably not.

Last tips, respect other water users, smile and have fun. If it wasn't fun, we wouln't do it! DO NOT get angry with yourself. When you do that, the learning juices dry up. Enjoy the beatings (I do) and just have fun... Then you'll soon become more proficient. Any more questions just shoot...

Have a great weekend, I know I will! Time to see the missus! WOO HOO!!!

Cheers,
Adrian

Shweeet...

Thanks very much, I spend a lot of time in the waves but generally in a 7 meter long sit on top surfski that, because of the hull shape and length, you lean the opposite way to which you want to go.

So it's all a bit weird but I definitely need to get tighter as I have short legs and weigh 74 kg after a good meal so being a bit loose in the boat isn't ideal.

Finding it a bit tricky to get the outfitting comfy ish but I'll get it right eventually.

Thanks very much, I'm in Durban so just waiting for a decent weekend of waves to really get going.

Cheers

Andrew5336 wrote:

Thanks very much, I'm in Durban so just waiting for a decent weekend of waves to really get going.

Andrew Pollock (usually) and Kade Burnett are both in Durban, I can put you in contact or else you'll probably bump into them anyway. Philip Claassens is in Richards Bay and always up for a surf, or some creeking... Let me know. Have a lekker weekend!!

Andrew5336 wrote:

Hi Guys

I'm hoping Adrian or one of the SA Surf Gurus can help me out with the following:

I have paddled a bit in the sea in a kayak (First a Riot Showbiz and then a Small Flirt) and have just go the sexiest damn thing ever ( A Fluid Element for the uninitiated).

1) Getting out through big foamies - head on, diagonally, sink the tail and try get the nose up? I'm trying all of these and getting worked - either backflips or front flips and losing lots of momentum.

2) Taking off - is it better to take off straight or diagonally. I am trying both and suppose it depends on wave size and strength etc?

3) Carving - because the edges are so pronounced and the bottom is so flat it's hard to push the rails into the wave face. Should I be leaning from the waist or keeping my body straight and forcing the hull to actively dig into the face?

4) Paddle - how hard to drag the paddle on the face as a pivot point? I haven't been on massive waves yet so it seems to be a balancing act between turning and losing too much momentum.

Any other advice will be good!

Andrew

Hi Andrew,

I started paddling waveski's many years ago so I'll give you my techniques from a waveski surfer perspective.

1) Getting out:

This is challenging for any paddle craft that can't duck dive under the wave. With a waveski I use a few techniques.
Which one works best is dependent on the size and shape of the wave as well as it's intensity.
For small roller type waves where the wave crumbles into a foam pile the best way is over. Lean back to get teh nose up and then throw your weight forward as the wave hits, this propels you over. YOu lose a lot of momentum. but thats the way it is.

For larger rollers with large foam piles the same technique applies. However if you are about to find yourself being smashed by a wave about to break you have two choices. Turn and surf it or roll over, pull your head forward and reach forward underneath the wave with the paddle and as the wave passes over you pull the extended blade backward and execute a eskimo roll. You should pop out on the other side.

With Shore breaks, you have to time the sets and wait for a lull. Shore break waves and surf kayaks are lethal!!

Point breaks have been covered and are no different to other surf craft.


2) Taking off:

well straight is always better. Straight allows you to generate a lot of speed to execute an effective bottom turn to position your self in the power pocket. Diagonal take of always lead to some side slip and often you catch a rail and over you go. Thats not much fun.
The only exception is during off shore wind conditions where the wind is from the side. It often helps to point the nose slightly into the wind to help with stability on the face of the wave. but as soon as you have the wave its best to straighten the nose and generate speed before the bottom turn. If your take off is on a steep wave then you will execute your turn on the face if you take off close to the power pocket. The further away you from this area of the wave the more time youhave to gather straight line speed and then turn.


3) Turn technique:

Hmm not sure what exactly you are after here. The depth the rails dig in is a function of how much weight you can get forward for the turn. Rails have no volume so they sink to the depth determined by your weight and the hulls buoyancy. The more buoyant the boat and the lighter you are, the harder it will be to get the rails in. With Surf kayaks you have to get the balance right. On my Waveski, the buoyancy is very concentrated along the centre line of the ski and the rails have little volume so they bite hard. With a surf kayak it's not possible to achieve this shape easily. The Riot surfyaks come close to being waveski's with a deck. I've not tried a Fluid Element yet.
THe turn comes mostly from your hips and how far you can stretch the paddle face toward the wave face to create a fulcrum. On a Ski we brace with the feet, with a surfyak, it's the knees. Your body should remain flexible, with your back forming a gentle arc like a bow. Straight does not work here. A surf yak should have a low cockpit to allow for this.

4) the Paddle:

The paddle is a brace on the wave face but it should not be dragged or it will slow you down. It's a fulcrum when turning so a quick dab coupled to a well timed lean and a deep rail and you're heading back up the face ready to get some airtime.
Don't drag the paddle.
On some waves you may consider placing the paddle on the outside of the surfyak and not on the face side. I've used this technique on some hollow waves we have around Cape Town. Primary edge control comes from you buttocks to the hull via the seatpad and your knees acting as additional control mechanisms.


Some advise already given is very sound. On Really big waves you have to beware of the wave breaking on your spray deck. rather lean forward and let your back and shoulders take the weight of the water or roll the boat over and reach under the wave.

hope this helps

You might want to check this video I made. There are some shots of me going over some biggish foam piles. And obviously also normal paddling. Check it out:

Hmmm. Here is the direct link:
www.vimeo.com/8812236

Or on Playak.tv. Same video, different source:
playak.tv/video/2621/Adrian--Kayak-Surfing-January-2010