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The problem i have found and mentioned before is putting the Triak on a roof rack alone, owing to that problem it has stayed in "dry dock". I mentiond the problem to the Triak company and they said the solution is ," load from the back using HULLY ROLLERS and MAKO SADDLES on the front, made by YAKIMA, also the best kayak cart for the TRIAK in their opinion is made by HOBIEi think it will be the UNIVERSAL. So in a couple of weeks on my next trip to Thunder Bay i will buy the parts made by YAKIMA, and if i can find one the HOBIE cart. The trail cart sold by oakorchard with some saddles added may be good but it dosn,t fold up small to go in a kayak, it,s really made for a canoe.  

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You need a couple of wheel dolies to fit the potoons and maybe a a hitch and use the boat itself as a trailer.
Latest news from TRIAK the boat will be built in CHINA and there are changes to the design, now doubt they will soon be on the Triak web site .
Some of the photos were in the newsletter which I recieved same time as your note John. weather here is above freezing,had the heat off all day.Hope that this finds all well wit you.Cheers, Greg
Yes we received the same news letter as everone else on the list did. IF anyone reads these notes it,s so they can see and find out what is happening with Triak. I expect they have to sell a few to pay the new designers for the up grade.
Yes selling a few would be very helpful watched he Littlewings under sail again and it is fast ver nice but very pricey. Cheers Greg
At last i,.m back, not that iv,e really been anywhere. bought the Hully rollers and Mako saddles, modified the mounts and put them on my jeep roof rack, then tried to put the Triak on, what a performance, when i tried to pick one end up it tried hard to turn over with the sail , masts and boom on the top, so it was a no go. I realized the mast set up had to go, so off it came, now when lifted it didn,t try to roll over but the sail is not a quick enough process to put on by the lake so i bought the KAYAK SAILOR Sail rig, made mounts so it would fit the Triak (i have the original design with deep trough down the middle), now all was set. So i tried again, unfortunatly the rack is so high i couldnt lift it high enough. No problem as i have a station wagon i fitted the Hully rollers to it,s rack and on the front i fitted Spring Creek saddles, presto i could now lift the Triak high enough. So i have sail the Triak several times on the local lake, probably not as fast as the Triak rig but it sails. Triak will have overcome all the problems i had with their new boat which is lighter and the sail rig is removed easily for car topping.
John Nice to hear from you, Glad you had some type of success with the triack. Winter appears as though it wants to come early this yearWetb and miserable only because he snow melted. Slipped on ice this nmorning on my daily stroll Other than a few monor weather problems the summer has been good just as always to short. I began my June reno yesterday and wish I hadn't. Cheers, Greg
I have just seen that TRIAK have re vamped their web site and done a very good job of it. The original boat has now been dropped off which is what i expected.

The new Triak is now owned by quite a few people, if any one has the new one and also had the previous design are you able to give a comparison between the two designs. Without actually having seen the new one, Triak did the changes that i thought were needed with an exception. First they made the boat lighter, second the new sail is easily removed so it can be put on at the "beach" and they made the pontoons larger. the one thing i would have kept the same if it was possible was the hinged centre board, it,s now a dagger board, perhaps it dosn,t matter unless you suddenly go over shallow water. Also the "foils" have gone, i don,t think they did much anyway, perhaps someone who knows can say. This making the boat lighter and removing the sail will make it easier to "car top".

Hi John, I've just picked up an older model Triak.  (similar to yours, but yellow and with, I think, the older decals on the wing.)  I'm lucky enough to live 1600' from Long Island Sound, so wheeling it right to the beach is an option-- I put it into my Toyota Previa to bring it home to Conn. from New Jersey.

Everything looks to be ok with the exception of a bungee beneath the seat that is broken.  I might be hitting you up for photos of how to put the seat together properly and maybe asking you to double check my sail rigging before I try it out later this week.

One question-- what paddle do you recommend?  I'm 6'4", and don't know beans about selecting a paddle.  I'm probably looking for an inexpensive one to start.  Also, I'll be picking up a pfd and would welcome input on that, too.


Joe in New Haven

Your PFD should be comfortable so that you will where it. A class 3 providing a minimun of 15.5 lbs. of flotation.Your coast guard website will have good info on the differentbtyues , The class 3 is pretty standard for canoeing and kayaking. It provides ample floatation for most people and insulation around the torso should you end up in the water. white wate pfds are shorter in lenth so that they will sit above the rear cocpit lip and deck of a kayak which might be a consideration. I have been using a couple of Mustang PFDs now for a number of years and am very happy with them. I have a selection. Rescue vest are sometimes worth considering if you are a heavier person as they can supply up to 28 pounds of floatation, but are around 300 dollars. Exoect to spend around 120 ton150 bucks for a good pfd and remember one day it will save your life so cheap is not in my opinion a consideration. Comfort and flaotation areand remember if it has lots of pockets to fill up it will addto your weightand effect the floatation factor.


Just headed out for a paddle-only shakedown.  Tried and failed to build a cart, and wound up running out to a sporting goods place and back in time for high tide.

I hauled the thing all the way down from my doorstep to the beach.  Downhill was one thing-- coming back up the hill was another-- it's not a featherweight rig.

I didn't try the sail yet, as I wanted to practice raising and lowering it at home a few times.

It tracked well, and the maintenance I did on the rudder and seat worked very well.  I went out with a $10 cheapo type III (I know, I know, but I'm keeping very close to shore for now) and a cheapo $20 paddle.   The paddle will eventually be my spare and a nice PFD will go on the Christmas list.

There was one disaster-- one of the knobs that is used to screw in the ama broke.  Plastic top separated from the captive bolt.  Looks like it had been repaired previously.  The thing is too round to really put anything on that will maintain a grip, so it looks like a small set of vise grip pliers in a waterproof box will now become part of the gear.  Oh well.

If I keep hauling that thing up and down my hill to the beach, I'm going to be in pretty good shape-- never mind the paddling!

It felt pretty fast.  I was able to put on some speed and almost catch up to some kayakers who were farther out and quite a bit ahead of me.  Once I get used to the sail rig and get a higher quality longer paddle, this is going to be the perfect craft for me. I'm thrilled.





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